No drinking. Not even one beer. And no shaving." Those were Ian's orders the night before the camel muster. The no-drinking rule was because he wanted everyone sharp. This was serious business. On a camel muster, a slow reflex can get you hurt. And the no-shaving, he explained was an old dirt biker trick, that gave you an extra layer of protection should your face act like a push-broom running over the Outback floor.
Our convoy headed out pre-dawn for the far reaches of the station's land. Randy loaded into one of the two helicopters so he could take aerial shots. I think Ian conveniently forgot to tell him that the choppers were used to actually wrangle the camels. In this vast area it was better than quads or horses. The good news is Randy got a few shots from the helicopter that you would never guess are from a helicopter. The bad news is Randy may now have whatever the phobia is that means you are afraid of helicopters.
The choppers were accompanied by a couple of young guys on dirt bikes. They pushed the herd onto a clearing. Ian told the video crew to stand together to form a big shape, so they did not look like human beings. I guess looking like a human being is a bad thing when you are facing 80 or so stampeding camels. Kelly, one of the guys forming the big shape said he came pretty close to ruining his underwear.
After the bikes and helicopters pushed the herd into the clearing, "Shorty" and "The Southern Cross" took over. Shorty is a modified FJ-40 and The Southern Cross is a modified FJ-45. Modified meaning camel-proof. Basically a steel-bar exoskeleton surrounds the vehicle. Hand-crafted by Ian. Shorty also doubles as a camera car by attaching a plastic seat (the kind they have at a high school cafeteria) to the hood. Then some unlucky cameraman gets to belt himself in and hope his last meal stays down.
The guys use the two old Land Cruisers to single out a camel. They drive along either side of the camel, while a rider on Shorty's running board uses a pole to lasso the targeted camel. The rider dismounts, holds the camel at bay, while other hands encircle the camel's legs with a second rope, bringing the camel down. It's kind of like what they did in "The Empire Strikes Back" to the Imperial Walkers in the snow.
After a successful takedown we broke for lunch. After, the choppers again took to the sky in hopes of mustering a second batch. We got word a bit later that a second, smaller herd was being pushed our way. "Bushman Bob, grab a radio, get in the new Land Cruiser and do what I tell you" Ian shouted, referring to the ironic name he had bestowed on yours truly. Well, when Ian Conway points at you and barks out an order, it's wise to do as told. So I hopped behind the wheel of the 200 as my producer, Brandon, rode shotgun. "This is gonna be wild," he told me. I hoped it was a good kind of wild.
I fired the ignition on the LC-200, and made sure I had all her appropriate bells and whistles fully engaged. Adrenaline was flying into my blood stream. The second herd crested the hill, but instead of heading for the clearing, they made a beeline for a wooded area. Great, now along with worrying about those charging camel, I gotta worry about slamming a tree. Oh yeah, and the young guns flying by me on the bikes.
"Let's go, Bob" came Ian's voice over the radio.
"This is gonna be interesting," I thought to myself. I shifted the Land Cruiser into gear and grabbed a good chunk of steering wheel. Some pressure on the accelerator and I was chasing camels. Really fast camels. I couldn't believe they went that fast.
"Man, you gotta get right up their a**," came the second transmission.
A little more gas and I was closing. We were really moving now, but I still can't tell you how fast. I got that tunnel vision you get when your mind is in full sensory overload. I glanced a few times at the gauges, but nothing registered. I moved into position ½ a length behind the trailing camels. The video guy was in the cafeteria seat catching the LC-200 driving among a pack of camels.
"OK, Bob, now position yourself so that the trail camel is between you and me." I was gonna help Ian catch one.
Our first attempt was a botched one. As you might guess, my botch, not Ian's. He pulled alongside me to discuss.
"Sorry Ian, I just don't want to hurt the camels."
"Fair enough, but you gotta get close."
"Sorry, Ian."
"No worries, you are doing fine, mate. Let's go."
Another summon of the engine via the gas pedal and I was back in the hunt. The Land Cruiser really handled the bumps well. I put in a fair amount of time behind the LC-100, and I have to tell you the improvement to the 200 is substantial. We were buzzing along at a pretty good clip over ruts, logs and rocks the size of football helmets. I was going from almost full lock left to almost full lock right on the steering wheel. And I never felt any havoc being wreaked on my kidneys. I looked over at Ian bouncing around in Shorty, goggles secured tightly to his face and I knew he was having a very different experience. Man, I dig that guy.
We drove in formation similar to a fighter pilot and his wingman. Ian picked out a target and we locked in on him. Ian in the right-hand-drive Shorty, me to his right, in the left-hand-drive 200. We were sitting no more than a few feet from each other. The camel slowly slipped between the two vehicles. In a second or two, we would be in position. I wouldn't blow this one. Evan, a hand on Ian's ranch, was standing on the right floorboard of Shorty with his hand holding onto the roll cage. I looked for the pole with the lasso on the end and was surprised when I saw none. Then one of the craziest things I have ever witnessed in person, happened. Evan leapt from Shorty and wrapped his arms around the camel's neck. From the passenger seat, I heard Brandon say aloud "Oooh my God." The camel wasn't too happy about what Evan was doing. I know this because I watched the camel toss Evan around like a rag doll. But crazy Evan held on. Eventually, the camel slowed a bit and a bunch of Ian's other guys ran up and took the camel off its feet. I eventually ran out to help, but well after the camel was already down. I think I just needed a few seconds to let what I just saw sink in.
Ian eventually dismounted Shorty and walked my way and stuck out his hand. "You're a real bushman now, Bushman Bob." I couldn't wait for the gathering around the fire, back at camp that night.
When we first pulled up to King's Creek Station, our Australian point man, Steve Rowland, went into the station headquarters to wrangle up Ian Conway. I didn't recognize him at first. When Steve introduced him, I said to him as I shook his hand "Ian, I didn't recognize you from your pictures." "I look younger now," he retorted. Ian. Always fast with a joke. Australians tend to have big personalities. Ian Conway has a big personality, even for an Australian.
Ian is part European descent (Scottish) and part aboriginal. But as he likes to say, he's 100% Australian. Ian's first residence on his land was a canvas roof on four poles. His toilet was a toilet seat on top of a sunken diesel drum. He is quick to point out how easy he had it compared to the bush settlers before him. He loved his land, but was flat broke. He then realized his cash cow was walking around in front of him. Wild camels. Australia is one of the few places in the world with wild camels. So he started catching and selling camels. At first, he sold camels to anyone he ran into. Eventually he sold camels to places all around the world. He purchased a beat-up 1975 FJ-40 at an auction for $4200. A guy at the auction offered him $2000 for the roof and the left-hand door. So it cost him $2200. Ian told me he guesses that the $2200 investment has made him 1.5 million by catching the camels. He now runs King's Creek Station as a tourist destination (kingscreekstation.com.au) but the place still functions as a working cattle and camel station.
On our second day, our convoy suffered 15 tire punctures driving to a single location. We had three vehicles and only one spare per vehicle, so you can do the math. When you run out of spares and you are 2 hours from the shop, you fix flats in the field. The back of the LC-70 "ute" served as Ian's operating table as he used a manual bead-breaker to break the tire beads, so he could patch the tire. If you've ever tried this, it is not for the frail. Me and another guy took a whack at this manual bead-breaker. Even though we are both a bit younger than Ian, we both took twice as long as he did. Never missing the opportunity to dish out a hard time, Ian yelled to the other guy, "Tim, you can't ballet dance with it."
Later on, finally back in the workshop, we still had a bunch of tires to patch. I figured I'd tag along and try to not get in the way, and maybe get to know Ian better. I didn't know it at the time, but nothing gets a bushman to respect you more then a willingness to share in the work. Especially if it is the tough and dirty stuff. I endured my share of the razzing, but took it in good spirit. Not exactly slow on the draw, I dished out a couple of return slams, which surprisingly got huge laughs from Ian. It's a cool guy that can take it as well as he dishes it out.
When you spend time with him you get to really appreciate his sense of humor. (When one of the guys referred to him as "old man" he would look behind him to see if someone was standing there.) You get to experience firsthand, how humble he is (I spoke with him often about the life of an Outback station (Australian for ranch) owner and inevitably he would steer the attention to his wife and the women of the outback and how tough they had it. And then to his kids. But rarely himself.) Stories about guys like Giles and Gibson (Famous Australian Explorers) are much more interesting when you hear them from Ian than when you read about them in a history book. Probably more accurate too. When you hang out with him you also get to learn, firsthand, bushman logic. Like the time our off-road consultant Jol told Ian he should have a place Ian called "Shifting Sands" mapped by a cartographer. Ian replied "What for, I know where it is."
If you're the type that likes to experience people and places rather than read about them, you know where I am coming from. If you have a particular urge to experience the Australian Outback, make a pilgrimage down to Ian's place. You'll experience that part of the world like few others have. And while you are at King's Creek Station, please give Ian and his family a message. The Land Cruiser team really misses you guys.
In 1878, work started on a planned 1800-mile railway between Australia's southern and northern shores. Slowly, the line was pushed from Augusta to Oodnadatta, where it stopped for nearly 40 years. During that time, camel trains run by Afghans continued the line north up to Alice Springs (500-K). They transported passengers and freight by camel. When the railway finally reached Alice Springs in 1928, it became affectionately known as "the Ghan," after the hearty Afghans who ran the camel communications network in the Australian Outback.
We boarded this magnificent train and received a tour from Michael, one of the train's directors. First, we toured the Gold Kangaroo section. This is the "first-class" section of the train. I felt like I was stepping on the set of a remake of "Murder on the Orient Express." This was a modern take of the train from the old movie, capturing all its romance and lavishness. The linen and silverware in the dining car rivaled any upscale restaurant in NY or LA. A stark contrast from the harshness of the Outback, observed outside the train windows. Next to each dining car is a lounge. Here we found a nice selection of wine, beer and spirits. Michael told us no two of the dining cars or the lounges are the same throughout the entire Ghan line.
We then took a tour of two of the three VIP cars on line.
These two were the Prince of Wales cars. A set built for the Prince during his visit in the early 1920's. Completely hand-carved wood and hand-forged stained glass. You can't help but appreciate the treats of the artistic skills of the old-time craftsmen.
Good news. The Ghan has a car carrier. Meaning you can bring your Land Cruiser along for the ride. Load up in Adelaide and be pampered until you off-load in Alice Springs. Then point the bonnet (hood) in the direction of King's Creek and start getting mentally prepared to maneuver your vehicle through the unkind terrain known as "the bush."
A few hours from Alice Springs Train Station, is Longitude 131. Longitude 131 is an amazing resort situated on the plain below Uluru (Ayers Rock). I loved that they named the place after a map coordinate. It really gives you the adventurer feel. An adventurer who definitely enjoys the finer things in life. With a max occupancy of 30, to say this place is exclusive is a massive understatement. Each guest quarters has a private view of the rock. We toured a small hilltop behind the main compound where they were preparing a small table for some guests' dinner. The view blew me away. Maroon earth bleeding into a cobalt sky with "the rock" peering out from the ground out in the distance.
My favorite time at the resort was night. It was a full moon when we were there, and the rock was silhouetted perfectly after sundown. Name a constellation in the southern hemisphere and it is visible from the property. Evening is also time to sample selections from 131's extraordinary wine cellar. Don't let the fact that you are 3 hours from anywhere, stop you from tasting a bottle worth more than your first car.
We spoke with the executive chef from the resort, who told us guests can phone ahead with special dining requests. It is rare that 131 can't fulfill one. 131 is the only place in all the territory that offers truffles. Yea, truffles. Dinners are prepared to pair with the wine selection for the evening. This is as far from the life that the original Outback settlers lived as you can get.
Each of the guest quarters is named after people influential to the settling of the Northern Territory. The one we asked to see was named after a bloke named Ian Conway. I walked into the unit just as Randy was wrapping up photographing it. On the wall were some pictures of Ian, along with a few paragraphs about the man. I walked over to take a closer look. Two days from now I was going to meet a guy, who had a suite in one of the nicest resorts I had ever stepped foot in, dedicated to him. I stood there trying to imagine what the guy in the picture was like. I was trying to conjure up what the ultimate bushman would be like in person. Always seeing what others can't, I heard Randy depress the shutter over my shoulder, capturing the moment.
There is no shortage of hills in the Outback. What you will find are: gentle ones, not so gentle ones, steep ones, really steep ones, and then the ones we wanted. One such area was what Ian called "Gypsum Hills." A rock hill covered with gypsum. A nightmare to navigate over, trust me.
For Gypsum Hill, we used Hill Start Assist Control (HAC)¹ to summit the hill. HAC is the uphill cousin of Crawl Control. On this one, when the driver removes his foot from the brake while on an incline, Hill-Start Assist Control (HAC) helps keep the vehicle from slipping backward.
While the Land Cruiser went up, Ian unenthusiastically said "amazing vehicle." That's the bushman's equivalent of doing a cartwheel.
In the summer, temperatures in Australia's Northern Territory (pronounced "Terra-tree" locally) can reach 50 degrees. Celsius. That's 122 Fahrenheit. So you need pretty heavy-duty A/C to even think about being comfortable. In Oz, we barely agreed on what CD to pop in, let alone what temp is comfortable. Luckily, we had a 4-zone climate control system. Basically, the driver, the front passenger and both occupants of the 2nd row could select their own personal perfect temperature. Even hard-core bushmen like us appreciate a comfortable cabin.
A good bushman knows how to handle his eating irons (eating utensils). Which makes for some big bushmen. The Land Cruiser seats eight. Even if a few of the bushmen (OK and one "Yank") haven't skipped too many meals. When we didn't need room for eight, we folded the last row seat down and stowed the entire seat up against the inside wall and got plenty of storage room. It's enough to handle all your camera gear. Whether you're a vacation snap-shooter or a world famous photojournalist.
In the Australian Outback, roads are few and far between. And the places that aren't roads aren't nice, flat, hard surfaces. You cross areas of hard-packed sand and eventually come to rock hills. We plugged in the GPS coordinates to a place we since renamed "Tire Puncture Hill." After 15 punctures (on 3 vehicles) on the drive out, we figured it was fitting. Ian gave the new moniker his blessing. Crawl Control is designed to take over accelerator and brake functions in low-traction situations. This means you can focus on steering. Think of it as rock crawling cruise control.
At King's Creek, the only time a vehicle drives on pavement is at the station's (Australians call ranches a station) fuel pump. All roads are dirt. And one lane. So driving around a blind curve can be pretty interesting. The brakes on the new Land Cruiser were designed so that the ABS technology could sense road surface and adjust themselves accordingly.
Randy was voted the Magazine Photographer of the Year for 2003 in the Pictures of the Year International competition. He has spent the last dozen years working in places as diverse as the Siberian Arctic, Africa, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Thailand, Newfoundland, Guyana, American Samoa, Turkey, Republic of Georgia, Australia and the South Pacific.
Randy was awarded Newspaper Photographer of the Year in 1992, one of only two photographers to win the title in both medias in a contest that has been operating continuously since World War II.
He works for a famous magazine, that we are not allowed to mention (feel free to do a web search on him).
If you had the pleasure of meeting him, you would never guess any of the above facts. Randy is one of the most unassuming people I know. After knowing him approximately 10 minutes, I no longer thought of him as Randy Olson, world famous photographer. I thought of him as simply one of the guys.
If Randy Olson designates himself as an organ donor on the back of his driver's license, I am envious of the person who gets his eyes. Specifically, the one he shoots photos with. My Art Director and I have worked with many great photographers in the past. Some real rock stars in the world of photography. None has had Randy Olson's eye. I wish I could see the world through Randy's point of view for just one week.
While driving a long haul in the Land Cruiser, we took a break from the constant joking and I had a chance to talk with Randy about photography, being creative and life. Randy has two credos on photography. Specifically on social documentation. One, "Life doesn't happen in perfect light." And two, "Great things seldom happen twice." When I asked him what traits were important for a good photographer, he quickly answered: "Compassion." A great social documentarian must understand the people he or she shoots. Which is why a very small percentage of people who wish to be photojournalists, actually become one. The biggest problem he sees today, is photographers being more concerned about the technology of photography than with the art of photography. Some of the best photos in history have been shot with a guy pulling the cap off a box camera, counting to 3 and putting the cap back on.
Randy was kind enough to help test out the Land Cruiser's newly available cooler box. While climbing up a road grader to get a photograph of the LC-200 kicking up dust at speed, Randy fell from the top onto the grader blade. He extended his arm to protect his head and in the process sprained his wrist. The cooler box kept cold packs cold while they were rotated for 10-minute shifts around Randy's wrist. In typical Randy fashion, once the swelling eased, he climbed back up on the grader and got the shot featured on this site.
To Visit Randy's Website, go to randyolsonphotography.com
The VDJ79 is an evolution of the 70-series cruiser that was first introduced in late 1984. Though never offered in the United States, the 70-series is the true inheritor of the FJ40's no-nonsense spirit. Light and compact as compared with its 60- and 80-series contemporaries, the 70- has always maintained a strong emphasis on capability over creature comfort. Its rugged, simple sensibilities have helped keep it in production for over 20 years.
For 2007 the FJ79 was fitted with the brand new 1VD-FTV engine, Toyota's first inter-cooled turbo-diesel V8.
Specs
Length 200.4 in.
Wheelbase 125.2 in.
Ground clearance 8.7 in.
Net vehicle weight 4453 lb.
Engine Type
Model 1VD-FTV V8 turbodiesel engine, DOHC.
Cylinders 8
Displacement 4.5 liter
Compression ratio 16.8:1
Maximum gross power 202 hp/3400 rpm
Maximum net torque 317 lb.-ft./1200-3200 rpm
Transmission
5-speed manual transmission
Front Suspension
Solid axle with leading arms and coil springs
Rear Suspension
Solid axle with leaf springs
When asked about the 60-series, one Land Cruiser mechanic smiles and talks about the mileage on one he'd just seen: 450,000.*
The all-new 60-series got its start in 1980 with new gasoline and diesel engines, new transmissions and new luxuries, like a moonroof, sport buckets and a third-row seat.
Toyota was aiming for on-road comfort, but off-road standbys were retained: front and rear solid axles, and two locking differentials. The result was a blended vehicle like no other. Eventually, some 2,500 variations would be made throughout the world.
The mechanic concludes his comments with the story of a guy who's got 650,000 miles* on his Land Cruiser. But it's not being towed to the junkyard. It's his daily driver.
* These mileage performances are exceptional. Do not expect to obtain the same mileage with your Toyota.
Specs
Length 107.5 in.
Ground clearance 8.1 in.
Net vehicle weight 4246 lb.
Engine Type
Model 2F inline-6 gasoline engine, OHV.
Cylinders 6
Displacement 4.2 liter
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Maximum gross power 135 hp/3600 rpm
Maximum net torque 210 lb.-ft./1800 rpm
Transmission
4-speed manual transmission
Front Suspension
Solid Axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs
Rear Suspension
Solid Axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs
The worldwide response to the new 80-series was overwhelming: the main plant had to stay open around the clock for six months straight. That was unprecedented—much like the 80-series itself.
Luxury and capability were integrated like never before. The long-standing solid axles were replaced with a coil-spring suspension—but with greater suspension travel. Passengers were met with available leather and refrigerator—but a space in the dashboard allowed for a two-way radio.
And off-road competence just increased. Full-time 4WD replaced the part-time system, and a center locking differential was added to the drivetrain.
Utilitarian models of the 80 continued to be used on Australian ranches. But luxury models were here to stay. Where would Land Cruiser go from here?
Specs
Length 189.8 in.
Wheelbase 8.1 in.
Net vehicle weight 4760 lb.
Engine Type
Model 1FZ-FE inline-6 gasoline engine, DOHC.
Cylinders 6
Displacement 4.5 liter
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Maximum gross power 212 hp/4600 rpm
Maximum net torque 275 lb.-ft./3200 rpm
Transmission
5-speed manual transmission/4-speed automatic transmission
Front Suspension
Solid axle with leading arms and coil springs
Rear Suspension
Full-floating solid axle with coil springs
With real doors, roll-down windows and available air conditioning, the 20-Series brought the BJ-era Land Cruiser into civilian life. But a subtle design trait on the dashboard foretold Land Cruiser's future: the glove box and instrument panel were identically shaped and interchangeable, making manufacturing a left-hand- or right-hand-drive version equally easy. For Toyota, foreign markets were the new target.
Toyota called it the "Land Cruiser Strategy:" establish a bridgehead in a new country with Land Cruiser and then follow it with passenger cars. Other marketing savvy included adjusting chassis length to market demand and creating pickups, wagons – soft- and hardtops, four-doors and two-doors.
Specs
Length 151 in.
Wheelbase 90 in.
Ground clearance 8 in.
Net vehicle weight 3803 lb.
Engine Type
Model F inline-6 gasoline engine, OHV.
Cylinders 6
Displacement 3.4 liter
Compression ratio 6.8:1
Maximum net torque 159 lb-ft./1600 rpm
Transmission
4-speed forward and 1 reverse. 3rd and top gears with synchromesh.
Front Suspension
Solid Axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs
Rear Suspension
Solid Axle with semi-elliptic leaf springs